Restaurants


3
Dec 09

Fort Defiance

Fort Defiance

Being a locavore is so trendy these days, so I walked into Fort Defiance in Red Hook feeling pretty good about the simple, chic traditional food I was about to consume.

Not to mention that I had just walked a little over a mile through a rather dark neighborhood to get there because my boyfriend told me it was “really close to the subway.” Yeah right. On top of the walk, I had not been feeling so good, and breathed a huge sigh of relief when I saw the small chalkboard sign on the restaurants corner.

The beautiful cherry interior garnished with bright colored prints on the chairs and tables echos the warm and genial service. The server was incredibly attentive and helpful. We ordered two of their signature home-made seltzer drinks–mine was a gingerade (spicy ginger and tart lemon is a PHENOM combo) and Nate ordered a Dark and Stormy. Our next course was a goat cheese salad with beets and a tomato bread soup with shaved parmesan, both fresh and full flavored with that juicy quality of just-picked vegetables. Our next course was chicken with balsamic braised brussel sprouts and whipped potatoes. Simple, but perfectly executed. The brussel sprouts were the best I’ve had this season, with a crispy glaze and perfectly tender inside leaves.

chocolate pudding 1

Of course, I couldn’t leave without dessert when I found out that their special was a chocolate pudding with fresh whipped cream. Chocolate pudding is a personal favorite of mine, and this particular dish was the perfect combination of dark chocolate and cream. Often times there is just too much milk in the pudding, but this pudding was dense with dark chocolate, and left the creaminess to the fresh whip on top. I would definitely go back if I’m in the Red Hook area of Brooklyn, and I would treck back to it as a destination if I knew they were serving the chocolate pudding again.

Overall: Great drinks, delicious, simple food. Warm and welcoming atmosphere.

365 Van Brunt Street (corner of Dikeman)
Brooklyn, NY 11231
347 453 6672

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30
Nov 09

Doughnut Monday: Sip and Dip

Sip and Dip 2

On route 114 in Bristol, RI lies the collegiate mecca for doughnuts and coffee: Sip and Dip. Sip and Dip is a chain exclusive to the Ocean State, and serves the most unbelievable flavored coffees, like chocolate coconut and blueberry cobbler (which you may not expect to be good, but will shock and amaze you). Their doughnuts are divine: light, fresh, and appropriately sugary. Residents of the RI like their coffee light and sweet, so unless you specify your kinds of milk and sweeteners, expect a light and sweet that will knock your socks off. I’m a skim-milk-only type of gal, and I really enjoyed the L&T (this warning comes from experience!)

Pumpkin Spice, Chocolate Sprinkles, and Honey Dipped with Blueberry Cobbler Coffee

Pumpkin Spice, Chocolate Sprinkles, and Honey Dipped with Blueberry Cobbler Coffee

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21
Nov 09

Excellent Dumpling House

wonton with hot and spicy sauce5

I don’t think I can properly put into words my feelings towards dumplings, and my office in SoHo’s proximity to Chinatown puts me in prime position for exploring and consuming. My first week on the job, I walked a few blocks down Canal Street to Lafayette, where I found the highly recommended Excellent Dumpling House. When I walked in, the place was packed (which is usually a good sign) and my friend and I were seated at a round table of 6, with two other sets of people already settled in and being served. The waitstaff moves fast, and before I knew it I had a menu thrust in front of me. My eyes widened at the selection of dumplings, pancakes, noodles, soups, you name it, on their menu. We decided on a number of small plates; fried and steamed dumplings, wontons, chicken and corn cakes, and steamed pork buns. The pork buns were absolute heaven. The honey-sweetened barbeque pork filling was encased in a sweet, sticky, spongy bun.

On my last visit to Excellent Dumpling House, I was surprised to find that they had run out of chicken and corn cakes. My friend and I needed to select an alternate menu item (and quickly because they are very fast-paced there) so we decided on the wontons with hot and spicy sauce. When it came to the table, I was pleased to see the dish topped with fresh bean sprouts, perfectly cooked wontons in a peanut and spicy oil broth. It was the perfect addition to our meal on a cold afternoon. It has taken the place of the pork buns in my ordering queue (but I’m going to get them both next time, for sure!)

Excellent Dumpling House
111 Lafayette St, New York, NY
(212) 219-0212
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18
Nov 09

Comfort Classics at Bar Symon

Cleveland is a truly fun place. People are friendly, the scenery (both industrial and natural) is breathtaking, and the food is fantastic. I had the opportunity to visit another of famed Chef and Restauranteur Michael Symon’s Cleveland establishments this past weekend, Bar Symon.

The bar features an impressive array of beers on tap, including a selection from Great Lakes Brewery. Luckily for me, the Christmas Ale was available, as I’m told it is the best and most highly anticipated of the company’s products each year. The drink was hearty, with a good head, and a crisp finish. While the beer on its own is enjoyable, with slight hints of seasonal cinnamon and ginger, it also ended up pairing really well with my meal (totally by accident!).

"Symon" Fried Chicken

"Symon" Fried Chicken

This fortunate happenstance is one part my drink selection, and the other part simply the comfort food-based menu of Michael Symon (who, if you haven’t guessed from previous posts, I have a particular affection for). My dining crew and I decided to order a variety of proteins and sides to sample the execution and ingenuity. Our favorite dishes by far were the “Symon” fried Chicken, the fried brussel sprouts, soft polenta, and bacon creamed corn. The chicken dish was an exceptional serving size, which was good considering the number of times the dish was passed around the table. The crispy skin was lightly dusted with Parmesan, and the honey and siracha made the overall experience sweet, with a slight tang. The chicken was perfectly cooked–moist and hot and ready to fall off the bone.

The grilled Hanger Steak was well seasoned and the chilies added an enjoyable contrast of texture. The fish of the day was a Mahi Mahi, simply cooked in olive oil with lemon and light seasoning. It was good, but a bit too simple.

Fried Brussel Sprouts with Garlic

Fried Brussel Sprouts with Garlic

After this adventure, I have decided that I enjoy brussel sprouts cooked with a crispy texture (fried, braised, etc). The fried brussel sprouts with garlic were slightly bitter and perfectly caramelized for an extra crunch.

The piece-de-resistance, for me, was the soft polenta. It was soft, without being grainy or overcooked. The butter content was high, but that made it all the more sweet and creamy. That is a recipe I wish I had in my arsenal.

Pretzel Sundae with Guinness Ice Cream

Pretzel Sundae with Guinness Ice Cream

Dessert was another high point of the meal. The turtle sundae was classic, but the Pretzel Sundae, which featured Guinness Ice Cream topped with dark chocolate sauce and pretzel sticks was an unexpected success. While you might expect the Guinness flavor to be overpowering (as Guinness can sometimes be) the ice cream was surprisingly light and the Guinness flavor really develops a minute or so after you’ve swallowed. The flavor profile is a stack: Ice Cream goes well with Guinness, Guinness goes well with dark chocolate, and as always, dark chocolate goes well with salty pretzels. The overall effect is refreshing, which is the perfect way to end a meal.

Overall, I give Michael Symon another thumbs up. Although this eatery is not as precise or well-polished as his others, the menu and decor suggest that it was not meant to be fine dining, just good food done well in a casual setting. Job well done on all counts.

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12
Nov 09

Cleveland’s Lola

Today's Charcuterie

Today's Charcuterie

Michael Symon is a master, and Cleveland is his muse. The interior of Lola restaurant reflects the industrial condition of the city and the people with warm, metallic tones and angular decor. Symon’s menu is about refined, rustic flavors, like his Braised Berkshire “Bacon” which is essentially a huge chunk of bacon with citrus, ginger, and carrot flavors. The creaminess of the fat on the cut mixes perfectly with the acid of apple and orange. When I asked the waiter to bring me the best entree on the menu, he delivered an unbelievably smooth and tangy goat cheese “mac’n'cheese” with rosemary chicken. The recipe can be found on Food Network’s site.

Braised "Bacon"

Braised "Bacon"

By far, the most enjoyable part of the meal was the first impression: Today’s Charcuterie. Each of the samples was perfectly cured, and the pate was particularly savory. The pickles were sour, which is how I prefer them, and the mustard was zippy. All were paired with cripsy, buttery mini-toasts: the perfect platform for building your own interesting flavor combos.

So if you find yourself in Downtown Cleveland, Lola is an absolute must:

2058 E 4th St, Cleveland, OH? – (216) 621-5652?

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12
Nov 09

Spain in Soho

Authentic cuisine is not difficult to come by in NYC, and Despaña, a small Spanish deli in the heart of Soho, is no different. In addition to their counter of perfectly cured meats, spreads, cheeses, oils and vinegars, the boutique offers a small seating area for eat-in tapas and bocadillos. The space has about 6 seats, and is perfect for a casual lunch with one or two friends. The bocadillos are their pride and joy, and yesterday we sampled a hot and cold from that section of their menu:

Chorizo Picante

Chorizo Picante

The chorizo picante was spicy, smoky, creamy and crispy. The bread was fresh and had a perfectly baked crust that made the first bite crunchy and savory. The peppers were not overwhelming, and added just enough kick to make the flavor profile a bit more intense. It is made with their own brand of chorizo, Mahon cheese, Piparras (Basque spicy guindilla peppers), tomatoes, and a dab of alioli sauce.

Despana 5

Despaña

The Despaña was our cold sandwich. Comprised of Serrano ham slices, creamy goat cheese from Murcia and a light tomato-garlic spread, the combination of the ham and goat cheese gave this sandwich a slightly pickled flavoring, that was slightly sour and very satisfying.

I would go back to Despaña for the simple, yet flavorful sandwiches that leave you feeling satisfied and re-energized without the food-coma-inducing heaviness that sometimes accompanies a cheese laden lunch. I would also return for their cured meats, which are diverse in kind and flavor.

Despaña is located at 408 Broome Street, NY, NY 10013. Sandwiches run at about $8.50, tapas at about $3.25 per item. Moderately expensive for anywhere else in the city, but about average for Soho.

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29
Oct 09

Foreign Burger: McRoyale in Morocco

Tangier is a tricky little city to navigate in only 6 hours. And it just so happened that by the time my boyfriend and I were done sight-seeing and our arms were sufficiently worn out from dragging our bags behind us for four hours, all of the restaurants and cafés were closed down for the afternoon. This is typical for the Moroccan food industry. So we walked along the coastline, saw the straights, and continued our quest for nourishment. Just as our vision was starting to blur from the hunger pangs (ok, so maybe I’m exaggerating just a tad), we came across the most magnificent sight our gastrointestinal tracts could have asked for: The Golden Arches.

And we were not the only ones who, at 5pm in the afternoon, were starving. The entire restaurant was packed with people–mostly middle-to-upper class families seeking a sustenance break on a short summer vacation. The weather was perfection, and so we opted to eat outside on the patio. As I had previously sampled the McArabia the previous summer during a trip to Cairo, Egypt, I decided on the McRoyale. From the image on the brightly back-lit menu, the sandwich looked fairly similar to a run-0f-the-mill Quarter Pounder with Cheese.

Present the Burger

Present the Burger

The main differences appeared to be the addition of lettuce, and an interesting mustard-based sauce that I believe is a mixture of ketchup, mustard, and a slight bit of mayo. It was hot, and delicious. Although it was not an authentic home-cooked meal of fish or kofta tagine, it was the kind of meal that hit the spot and left you feeling warm and happy all over after. This was, of course, accompanied by fat-kid feelings. Anyone who’s ever eaten at McDonalds knows exactly what I mean. The next time you come across a McDonalds in a foreign country, don’t be afraid to take advantage of the interesting and diverse menu. Your fat-kid inside will thank you, because feeding him is important. And, if it’s anything like the McRoyale, it will be delicious for both of you.

Eat the Burger

Eat the Burger

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27
Oct 09

An Insatiable Craving for Chicken Fried Oysters

fried oyster po'boys

The way I judge a restaurant is this: If I am satisfied at the end of my mail I call it a good restaurant. If I find myself making strange faces and noises while eating, I call it a great restaurant. For me, the sign of a truly remarkable eating establishment is when, months after eating there, I still have cravings for specific dishes that can only be satiated by a return, and re-consumption.

For me, Firefly restaurant is a remarkable place.

I last ate at Firefly in Washington, DC in May. The dishes I selected from the comfort food-inspired, local grown, earthy menu were small and simple: Perfectly deviled eggs dusted with smoked paprika, a spread of local cheese with homemade mustard, truffle oil french fries and a tuna and avocado BLT, these were all simple, well put together dishes that were executed perfectly

However the dish that stole the evening is the one I currently find myself salivating over as I write. The Chicken Fried Oysters with Po’ Boy sauce came to my table hot and crispy. The instant I popped the first one in my mouth, it was slightly salty (the way anything coming fresh from water should be), tender, buttery and deliciously savory. I found myself wondering if I should order a second round as the plate dwindled. I regretfully did not.

Although I am now 5 hours away from DC, my next visit will include a pilgrimage to Firefly, where I will hopefully find relief for an insatiable craving for Oyster Po’ Boys as only they can make them.

Tell me what you’re craving!

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25
Oct 09

“Play it again, Sam.”

Ricks Cafe 2

For the Casablanca obsessed, those who enjoy good ole fashioned kitsch, and mild, slightly awkward orientalism, Rick’s Cafe in Casablanca, Morocco does exist. Atmosphere is fun, and a bit silly. Not to be taken seriously. Food is just ok. Seafood is overly fishy and portions are not priced to size (too little for too much). For those who are Bogart fanatics, they place the movie on repeat on the upstairs balcony.

Ricks Cafe 1

Ricks Cafe 3

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18
Jun 09

Tea Time

Since my move back to my hometown in Connecticut, I have been looking for fun and interesting places to dine and write about. One of the first that was suggested to me was M-Bellish Tea Room in Milford. This small establishment is easy to find–right over the Devon bridge coming from Stratford. I would recommend a trip to M-Bellish, just for some of the tea.  

m-bellish-1The good at M-Bellish are primarily the tea and the hospitality. The greeting that I received when I entered was warm and bubbly–the woman who seemed to be running the tea room was active and present in the shop. I was very impressed by her. The tea was fantastic–I ordered the Wu Yi Oolong and took a deep breath as I took my first sip and enjoyed the dry, earthy flavors. 

The most disappointing part of the experience at M-Bellish was the service. At the time I went, my sister and I were the only two people in the restaurant. It took the ONLY server about 10 minutes to come back to us for our tea order (everything else was pre-set, as we had ordered the Light Tea). It was another 15 minutes before our tea was brought to us, and then about another 15 before we saw any sign of food. By the time my sister and I were finished, it had been over an hour and a half simply to have tea and a light meal. I understand the atmosphere of relaxation, but this felt more like incompetence that purposeful time in between orders. 

The food was decent, but not decent enough to make me come back for another $30 light tea. Next time, I might order a simple sandwich off of their to-go menu, or perhaps a salad. I was surprisingly pleased by the mandarin orange and cream cheese sandwich with walnuts on cinnamon-raisin bread was possibly the highlight of the meal, which included cucumber and cream cheese sandwiches, chicken salad sandwiches, and a particularly disappointing dry turkey with a bit of mustard sandwich. I appreciate white bread, and I love store-bought loaves, a starch I subsisted on during my college days when money was tight and a jar of peanut butter was the only spread on hand. I am, by no means, a bread snob.  The ingredients of these sandwiches were fantastically fresh and perfectly proportioned, but the bread was clearly not fresh. This ruined the sandwiches, which in my mind, could have been saved with a good fresh slice of Wonderbread (baring the turkey sandwich, which was beyond repair). 

m-bellish-2The menu advertises the next course as a warm scone with clotted cream and preserves. The latter two, yes. Warm scone, no. Because I was tasting the scone after the sandwiches, I made sure that I was not making any unfair assumptions, and tested the temperature of the scones when they first came out. They were cold when they arrived at my table. However, the scones were fresher than the bread, however, and so I was pleased. The petit fours were mediocre. The strawberry tart was delicious if you took the strawberry off of the tart and ate it straight with the mint leaf–otherwise the custard was simply too overwhelming. The white chocolate strawberry petit four was very sugary, and the chocolate covered mini-cake had an overwhelming amount of almond taste to it. The meal, in my opinion, was not worth the $30 a person. 

Again, the hospitality and tea will bring me back to M-Bellish, but I won’t be eating there again. As we were leaving, the hostess gave my sister and I both roses, and we purchased some tea, and because they didn’t have the tea that I had wanted, the hostess generously gave me a sample of a deep, earthy, amber-colored tea called Kali Cha, which I sampled the next morning with my peanut butter sandwich on fresh, whole wheat bread. Pepperidge Farm. Delicious. 

Overall, I enjoyed my experience at M-Bellish Tea Room. However for an establishment named for an element of detail, they need to pay a bit more attention, and honor that name, in both the food and the service.

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