Posts Tagged: Bon Appetit


24
Nov 09

Cook the Covers November Edition: Thanksgiving Turkey(s)

The centerpiece of the Thanksgiving meal is often also the focal point of food publications this time of year. The stress of Turkey Day is often caused by it’s namesake, and thus food magazines often offer up high-gloss food porn to cure anxiety around the L-tryptophan laced, food-coma-inducing highlight of the holiday. Here at Grumpy, we decided to put the recipes served up on the magazines’ 8.5″ x 11″ platter. We tested the cover recipes from Food and Wine, Bon Appetit, and the sadly deceased Gourmet. We cooked an approximately 10lb. turkey for each recipe, and followed the instructions exactly (with slight modifications on the time seeing as our turkeys were smaller). Here are the results:

3rd Place:

Gourmet‘s Cider Glazed Turkey

screen-capture-15

This turkey was an expected favorite that turned out to have a few issues. One of the main ones being: if you are using a pop-up timer, be careful to avoid getting any glaze on or near it, as it may prevent the timer from popping. The glaze is good, but may need to reduce a bit more than the recipe indicates. The turkey comes out with a beautiful, crispy skin, however if you leave the turkey in for even a few minutes too long, the glaze begins to burn, which leaves a bitter taste in your mouth. So once the glaze goes on, watch the turkey closely to ensure it crisps, but does not burn. Right out of the oven, this turkey was juicy, and if you got a piece with skin, it was particularly savory. Once it sat, however, the turkey became dry, and pieces without the skin didn’t get the flavors of the apple and onion that it was stuffed with.

2nd Place:

Bon Appetit‘s Clementine-Salted Turkey

Clementine Salted Turkey from Bon Appetit

I also had high hopes for this turkey, and found a few major issues with both in process and in product. Again, the turkey was delicious directly out of the oven, however after a few minutes of sitting (after the 30 minutes of cool time) once the turkey had been cut, the meat was quick to dry out. The meat retained a bit more moisture than the previous turkey, and had a bit more of the onion and Clementine flavor to it. However the skin did not get as crispy as I would have liked (or as is shown in the photo) and overall the result is not necessarily worth the effort to put all of the various components of this one together. It was still very tasty, mildly juicy, and it was fun to make (albeit a bit complex and harried for Thanksgiving Day). Just not what I would expect on my table as the main dish of the holiday.

1st Place:

Food and Wine‘s Herb-Roasted Turkey

Herb Roasted Turkey from Food and Wine 2009

I did not expect this recipe to be my favorite, since my family and I have never brined our turkey before, and my mom was never a huge fan. I was pleasantly surprised to find that 18 hours or so in a bath of coriander seeds, mustard seed, fennel, bay leaves, salt and sugar yielded the juiciest, most flavorful turkey of the bunch. Not only did the meat retain more of the flavors involved in the cooking process, but those elements enhanced the taste of the meat itself. This was the most succulent turkey in the bunch. The recipe was very simple to follow, and the result was a crisp-skinned aromatic centerpiece that I would be proud to serve at any holiday meal. The gravy in this recipe was also our favorite. Even though it did not feature homemade turkey stock like the other recipes, the overall flavor (I think it’s the bread that does it) is hearty, salty, and just the right amount of creamy. This one got all the votes, from all six of the people living in my house.

The brine was one of my favorite parts of this recipe! Here are some pictures of the beautiful brine:

corianderseedbrine2 fennelforbrine

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17
Nov 09

Season for Spice Cake

spice cake and pumpkin ice

When my dad came home with a pint of Dr. Mike’s Pumpkin Ice Cream (YUM!) we needed a complimentary baked good that would pair well with the creamy, nutty, distinct pumpkin flavor. My first thought was gingerbread, but I wasn’t in the mood for cookies, and neither was the family. I settled on this recipe for spice cake from Bon Appetit in December of 1998. The cake is their recipe, but I altered the frosting slightly to be my own, because I wanted more of a maple glaze. What really adds the special flavor to this recipe is the crystallized ginger, with a sweet little kick when you take a bite.

For cake

  • Nonstick vegetable oil spray
  • 3 cups all purpose flour
  • 2 tablespoons ground ginger
  • 2 teaspoons baking soda
  • 1 1/4 teaspoons ground cinnamon
  • 3/4 teaspoon ground cloves
  • 1/2 teaspoon ground nutmeg
  • 1/4 teaspoon salt
  • 1/3 cup minced crystallized ginger
  • 10 tablespoons (1 1/4 sticks) unsalted butter, room temperature
  • 1 cup (packed) golden brown sugar
  • 3 large eggs
  • 1 cup mild-flavored (light) molasses
  • 1 cup boiling water
  • 2 1/2 teaspoons grated orange peel

For Frosting

  • 1 lb confectioners sugar
  • 3-4 Tbsp. milk
  • 1 stick butter, room temperature
  • 3 tsp. maple syrup

spice cake and pumpkin ice 2

Make cake:
Position rack in center of oven and preheat to 350°F. Spray 10-inch-diameter cake pan with 2-inch-high sides with nonstick spray. Line bottom of pan with parchment paper; spray paper. Sift flour and next 6 ingredients into medium bowl. Mix in crystallized ginger.

Using electric mixer, beat butter in large bowl until fluffy. Beat in brown sugar. Beat in eggs 1 at a time. Gradually beat in molasses, then 1 cup boiling water. Mix in grated orange peel. Gradually mix in dry ingredients.

Transfer batter to prepared pan. Bake until tester inserted into center of cake comes out clean, about 1 hour. Transfer pan to rack and cool 15 minutes. Run knife around pan sides. Turn cake out onto rack; peel off paper. Cool.

Make filling and frosting:
Beat the butter and maple syrup together. Add 2 Tbsp. of milk and beat until creamy. Gradually add powdered sugar, alternating with another tablespoon or two of milk (milk will change the consistency).

Frost the cake once it is cool, and if you would like to create a cool, dripping effect, you can layer frosting on top of the cake and around the top edges while it is still a bit warm, and watch the melting frosting create smooth drops of frosting around the sides of the cake.

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